***You can purchase an INEXPENSIVE AD-FREE PDF of this pattern on Etsy HERE and on LoveCrafts HERE! This beautifully formatted PDF includes ALL the step-by-step photos, graphics and is a total of 9 pages including the cover page! You can also purchase a convenient Lion Brand Yarn kit that contains ALL the fleece yarn you will need, 18 mm safety eyes, a digital version of the pattern and optional yarn needle and fiberfill – get the kit HERE!
Crochet your own jumbo Fleece Teddy & Bunny using special fleece sherpa yarn! These cuddly stuffies are so soft and fluffy and will be cherished by loved ones!
Materials:
- Go For Faux Fleece Sherpa Yarn (level 7 Jumbo) in “Honey” (for bear) and “Cream” (for bunny); 262 g/127 yds for Bear (2 skeins) and 404 g/195 yds for Bunny (3 skeins); purchase the kit HERE
- 6.50 mm Clover Amour Hook
- Large plastic yarn needle (available through Lion Brand HERE or Amazon HERE) – make sure the eye of the needle is large enough for the jumbo fleece yarn to fit through so you can attach your pieces together
- Fiberfill
- 18 mm safety eyes
- Lock Ring stitch markers
- Small amount of worsted weight (level 4) yarn for nose: Brown for bear (I used Cotton Ease Yarn in “Cocoa”) and Light purple for bunny (I used Cotton Ease Yarn in “Mushroom”)
Notes:
- Please check out my blog posts entitled “Amigurumi for Beginners“, “How to Read Amigurumi Patterns“, “The Magic Circle“, “The Invisible Decrease“, “The Right Side of Amigurumi” and “Amigurumi Nose Tutorial” for helpful tips and techniques that you can use when crocheting this amigurumi.
- Work in continuous rounds so there is no visible seam (do not slip stitch after each round).
- Fluffy yarn is challenging to work with (see tips below), so we will be creating basic shapes without complicated or uneven increases or decreases. Then we will use special shaping techniques to help redefine the face.
- We begin with a simple sphere for the head and will be using these shaping techniques to give more definition: for the bear, we will do eye indentation and snout definition. For the bunny, we will do eye and head indentation and snout definition.
- Eye indentation pulls the safety eyes back to give them more depth. Before you begin crocheting the head, cut two long strands of yarn (approximately 37″/94 cm each) to use for the eye indentation.
- The snout, head and foot shaping involves weaving strands of yarn through different parts, pulling tight and tying knots (described in more detail later on). Note that this technique works when using fuzzy yarn as the strands of yarn blend in and become hidden due to the texture of the yarn. We do not recommend using these techniques if you are using regular yarn, as the strands of yarn will be visible.
- Begin with a small loop for the Magic Ring: if you begin with a loop that is too big, it is challenging to pull the ring completely shut with this jumbo fleece yarn.
- Inc (increase) = Work 2 sc in the next stitch. [1 stitch becomes 2 stitches.]
- Dec (I use the invisible decrease): Insert hook into front loops of the next two stitches. Yarn over and draw through first two loops. Yarn over and draw through remaining two loops.
Fluffy Yarn Tips:
It can be challenging working with fluffy yarn if you have never worked with this special type of yarn before (not recommended for complete beginners). Here are some tips when working with fluffy yarn:
- You will need to feel for the next stitch and insert your hook into the next gap as you will not be able to see your stitches or where the next space is. Since you cannot see the stitches, this also means that fluffy yarn is more forgiving as you cannot easily see mistakes.
- I highly recommend using a stitch marker to mark the end of each round. This helps you keep your place in case you need to put down your work or if you get interrupted. You can also use the stitch marker as a guide and reference point for how many stitches you should be making at any given point around the circle. For example, if you know that there are a total of 42 stitches in a round, you should have 21 stitches by the halfway point (halfway across the circle). By the one quarter mark, you should have approximately 10 or 11 stitches. If you do not reach the desired number of stitches by the time you reach the stitch marker, you can frog the stitches (back to the stitch marker) and try again!
- Record your number of rounds using a pencil and paper or on your phone. It is very challenging to try and count your rounds when looking at the piece, so it can be very easy to lose your place (unlike amigurumi using regular yarn, where you can easily count how many rounds you have completed and where you are in a pattern).
PATTERN:
Before beginning to crochet, cut two long strands of yarn (at least 37″/94 cm) and set aside for eye indentation.
Head:
R1: 6 sc in magic ring. (6 sts)
R2: *Inc*, rep 6 times (12 sts)
R3: *Sc 1, Inc*, rep 6 times. (18 sts)
R4: *Sc 2, Inc*, rep 6 times. (24 sts)
R5: *Sc 3, Inc*, rep 6 times (30 sts)
R6: *Sc 4, Inc*, rep 6 times (36 sts)
R7: *Sc 5, Inc*, rep 6 times (42 sts)
R8-14: Sc 42
R15: *Sc 5, dec*, rep 6 times (36 sts)
R16: *Sc 4, dec*, rep 6 times (30 sts)
R17: *Sc 3, dec* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R18: *Sc 2, dec*, rep 6 times. (18 sts)
Add safety eyes about 1.75”/4.4 cm from bottom of head (bottom of safety eye is at the 1.75”/4.4 cm mark, middle of safety eye is around the 2”/5 cm mark), approximately 3.75”/9.5 cm apart (from inner tip to inner tip). DO NOT snap in washers yet.
With eyes loosely in place, embroider nose using worsted weight yarn and needle into an upside down triangle shape with a downward line. Position the nose between the eyes: the top of the nose should be positioned at the midline of the safety eyes. The dimensions of our triangular nose are: 1”/2.5 cm wide x 0.75”/1.9 cm tall. The little line below the triangle is 0.5”/1.3 cm long.
To give the face more definition, we will be using a technique called eye indentation. After inserting the safety eyes (without attaching washer/backing yet), use the yarn strands you set aside at the beginning and tie knots around the post of each safety eye. Snap in the washers. Have the strands cross each other inside the head and have them exit out the back of the head. Ensure that both strands from the SAME safety eye are in close proximity to each other when they exit the back of the head to make it easier to tie a knot (but they should not come out of the same hole). After this is done, you should have 4 strands of yarn coming out the back of the head, each exiting from their own hole. Stuff head, making sure there is stuffing above and below the criss-crossed eye indentation strands.
R19: *Sc 1, dec*, rep 6 times. (12 sts)
Finish stuffing as needed.
R20: *Dec*, rep 6 times. (6 sts)
Fasten off and weave in end.
Finish off the eye indentation: grab the two strands of yarn that correlate with one safety eye. Pull back to desired indentation and tie a double knot to secure. Repeat with other eye. Weave in ends.
We will now do some special head shaping techniques. Note that A refers to eye indentation in the diagrams below for the Bear & Bunny. Also, the solid lines indicate the section of the yarn strand on the outside of the head while the dotted lines indicate the section of the yarn strand that is on the inside of the head.
Bear Head Shaping:
(1) To create the snout, cut a 35”/89 cm strand of yarn and thread it from the bottom of the head up to 1.5”/3.8 cm above top of nose, across (about 2”/5 cm) and back down again (reference red line B in front view and side view diagrams). Pull tightly until desired snout is created, tie both ends into a knot and weave in ends. The snout has now been created.
Note that the photo collage below is taken from the “Boucle Bear” process (using bulky level 5 boucle yarn) but shows the same technique for the snout shaping!
Here is the Fleece Teddy head after the eye indentation and snout shaping!
Bunny Head Shaping:
(1) To shape the snout of the bunny, cut two 35”/89 cm strands of yarn and thread through the head as shown in diagrams (red lines B). The solid line above each eye is approximately 2.5”/6.4 cm in length. Pull tightly until snout has been protruded to desired shape. Tie both ends into a knot and weave in ends. The snout has now been shaped.
(2) To indent the sides of the head for ear placement (which will also help push out the cheeks), cut two 35”/89 cm strands of yarn and thread through the head as shown in diagrams (blue lines C). The indentation occurs approximately 4”/10 cm diagonally above top of safety eye. Pull tightly until side of head has been indented. Tie both ends into a knot and weave in ends. The sides of the head have been indented, and this is where you will attach the ears later on.
Bear Ears (make 2):
R1: 6 sc in magic ring. (6 sts)
R2: *Inc*, rep 6 times. (12 sts)
R3-4: Sc 12.
Fasten off and leave long end for sewing. Flatten sphere and sew onto head about 4″/10 cm apart.
Bunny Ears (make 2):
R1: 8 sc in magic ring. (8 sts)
R2: *Inc*, rep 8 times. (16 sts)
R3-14: Sc 16. (16 sts)
R15: *Sc 2, dec*, rep 4 times. (12 sts)
R16-22: Sc 12. (12 sts)
R23: *Sc 1, dec*, rep 4 times. (8 sts)
R24-25: Sc 8. (8 sts)
Fasten off and leave long end for sewing (do not stuff). Sew onto indented sides of head about 5.5″/14 cm apart so that ears are flopping downwards. Attach upper 3”/7.6 cm of ear so that it sits firmly against the head.
Legs (make 2):
R1: 6 sc in magic ring. (6 sts)
R2: *Sc 2, Inc*, rep 2 times. (8 sts)
R3: Sc 8. (8 sts)
R4: *Sc 3, Inc*, rep 2 times. (10 sts)
R5-7: Sc 10. (10 sts)
R8: *Sc 4, Inc*, rep 2 times. (12 sts)
R9-16: Sc 12. (12 sts)
We will now join the two legs and begin crocheting the body. For the first leg, fasten off and leave a long end (we will be using this end to sew the bottom of the body shut later on). For the second leg, DO NOT CUT OFF the yarn. Chain 1 and join with slip stitch to any sc on first leg. *Slip stitch in next sc on same leg, Chain 1, then slip stitch to next sc on opposite leg*, repeat a total of 3 times. You will now begin working the body in a round as illustrated by this diagram with a total of 24 stitches (first round of body):
Body (continues from legs):
R1: Sc 24
R2: *Sc 3, Inc*, rep 6 times. (30 sts)
R3-7: Sc 30. (30 sts)
Using a yarn needle or crochet hook, move the yarn end from the first leg down to the bottom of the body. Seam the bottom shut so there are no longer any holes or gaps.
R8: *Sc 3, Dec*, rep 6 times. (24 sts)
R9: Sc 24. (24 sts)
R10: *Sc 2, Dec*, rep 6 times. (18 sts)
R11: Sc 18. (18 sts)
R12: *Sc 7, Dec*, rep 2 times. (16 sts)
R13: Sc 16. (16 sts)
Fasten off and leave long end for sewing. Stuff legs and body and seam to head.
We will now do some foot shaping: cut two 20”/51 cm strands of yarn (one strand for each foot). Please reference the accompanying photos showing the front and side views of the leg.
Leg Front View:
Leg Side View:
The yarn strand will enter the back of the leg at A, exit the front of the leg at B, enter the front of the leg at C, exit the front of the leg at D, enter the front of the leg at E and exit the back of the leg at F.
Please note these distances from the bottom of the leg:
A and F: 5.5”/14 cm
B and E: 3.5”/9 cm
C and D: 2”/5 cm
The distance between C and D (and also B and E) is approximately: 1”/2.5 cm Pull the yarn ends (at A and F) back tightly to shape the leg, creating a bend at the foot. Tie knots and hide ends. The foot has now been defined. Repeat for other leg.
Arms (make 2):
R1: 6 sc in magic ring. (6 sts)
R2: *Sc 2, Inc*, rep 2 times. (8 sts)
R3-10: Sc 8. (8 sts)
R11: *Sc 2, Dec*, rep 2 times. (6 sts)
R12: Sc 6
Fasten off and leave long end for seaming. You do not need to stuff the arms. Sew onto sides of body.
Tail (optional):
R1: 6 sc in magic ring. (6 sts)
R2: *Sc 2, Inc*, rep 2 times. (8 sts)
R3: *Sc 2, dec*, rep 2 times. (6 sts)
Fasten off and leave long for sewing. Sew onto bottom back of body.
*******************************
As soon as we saw Lion Brand Yarn’s new Go For Fleece Yarn, Ryan and I knew that we wanted to make a bigger version of our popular Boucle Bear and Bunny! You have all loved our smaller version so much and many were saddened by the fact that the Baby Soft Boucle yarn (level 5 bulky) that we used for the original design has been discontinued. Now, you can crochet an even bigger version that is double the size! Believe me when I tell you that this new fleece yarn is incredibly soft and such a pleasure to work with – the colors available are absolutely beautiful, and this “Honey” shade is the perfect teddy bear color.
For this bunny, we are happy we went with the ears flopping down as she looks so sweet (the original Boucle Bunny has ears pointing straight upwards). The texture of this yarn is incredible since the individual stitches become blurred and you can hardly tell that this stuffed animal is crocheted!
With Fleece Teddy and Bunny being 18″/46 cm in height, they are so perfect for cuddling! These two are by far the largest amigurumi we have ever made as I have never used jumbo level 7 yarn, a 6.5 mm hook and 18 mm safety eyes for an amigurumi before!
Just look how tall this sweet teddy bear is! Here he is with our 6.5 year old daughter Brielle!
I have a soft spot for teddy bears as I used to have a teddy bear collection growing up. My sister and I used to make up elaborate story lines with our teddy bears, and it is so special how we can create our own now. You can choose your favorite colors and make accessories and clothing to personalize your own special teddy and bunny!
If you are interested in the smaller version using bulky level 5 yarn, check out my Boucle Bear and Bunny crochet pattern HERE!
Enjoy crocheting your own Fleece Teddies and Bunnies! They would make such special gifts for loved ones or for yourself! They are so incredibly cuddly, and you are filled with such a sense of accomplishment when you can make your own special stuffies by hand. If you post your work-in-progress or finished photos on social media, you can use the hashtags #crochetfleeceteddy and #crochetfleecebunny so we can all see! Thank you for supporting my work, everyone! Happy amigurumi making!
Thank you to Lion Brand Yarn for sponsoring this post! This pattern is an original pattern by Stephanie Lau of All About Ami. Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but please DO NOT sell the pattern or distribute it.
You may sell products made from this pattern but please clearly credit the design to me, Stephanie Lau of All About Ami, and provide a link to my blog www.AllAboutAmi.com. Permission is NOT granted for mass production or factory manufacturing of any kind. Thank you for being respectful and for your understanding!
